Museum Quality Exhibition Hand Carved Italian Davenport Desk 19th century
This item is supplied unpainted.
The item is made of a very high grade resin with an mdf kit for the rear of the desk
Approx 10.7cm high 9.4cm wide x 5.2cm deep
2 little top drawers open
Front flap opens to reveal interior
Easy to assemble
 
The top section can be removed or glued into position. I have therefore chosen to create this piece so that you can purchase the complete commode or just the bottom section. 
The carving is raised and this allows for easy painting of the pattern should you wish to highlight it in a constrast colour such as gold.
 
Supplied unaged - ready for tidying which will mean small nodules will need to be sanded or snapped off - this is super easy to do and takes just a minute or two.
 
A truly stunning example of a 19th century Commode writing desk. The original full size version would have been made for an exhibition to show off the cabinet makers skill. The design is attributed to Pauly CIE Et and the carving Moses Michelangelo Guggenheim 1837-1910.
 
General Notes
Resin Items
Unless stated otherwise the resin items are all 3D printed and as a result tend to show a higher quality of detail than any cast item (metal or resin). I use only high grade 3d printable resin and use extremely reliable and technically proficient 3D printers to print my work. 
When the item is printed it is supported on a framework of resin scaffolding which has to be removed. The scaffold is attached to the resin model by tiny little touch points. When the scaffolding is removed the touch points will invariably leave a little bobble which is easily sanded using a fine grade sandpaper. Occasionally there are little sections of scaffold remaining which can be snipped off and then sanded. 
Please use a primer (I use a spray primer) on the resin model model prior to painting. This ensures a good paint adhesion. 
Very occasionally the resin can be "sticky" - this only happens when there is a cavity such as a bowl or jug or recess. If this is the case you can clean the item using alcohol. 
You can glue the items using superglue. I have used canopy glue in the past which is also effective. If you require a slower fix then opt for the canopy glue. 
 
Metal Items
As with all my metal designs the pieces will require a little cleaning using a file and/or sandpaper. The metal is very soft so this is a simple and satisfying part of the build process. It is possible to bend some parts on some metal items. This is both a positive and negative. Very thin items can bend slightly when posted. I always suggest gently guiding the metal back to its original place if this should happen. BUT please note: Do not put the metal item in the oven as it will melt at low temperature - the same applies to using heatguns. 
 
I tend to use superglue (Hafixx being my favoured choice) with a super glue activator to speed things up. Superglue will semi cure within seconds and with an activator it will semi cure within a second or two. However please note the the glue will not be fully cured for another 24 hours.
 
To paint the item I strongly recommend a metal primer. Spray primers are the easiest to use and just a light coat with give the paint something to 'key' with......then the choice is yours. I use all types of paints from acrylics to cellulose spray paints. All have their own merits and so I choose according to the finish I wish to create.
 
After applying my coats of paint I will always add an aging layer of raw umber acrylic (water it down and then paint and wipe off to leave the dark paint in the recesses). Aging can be very rewarding and there are many options for this. One little recommendation is to use rotten stone/pumice stone powder to add what I like to describe as "dust" to the piece. It is a powder and will always be a powder unless mixed with a binder such as glue. The powder is a soft grey and if it is brushed on then off it will leave a slight dusting in the recesses of the design. 
A final flourish of splatter (very subtle brown/grey applied with by splattering the paint from a bristled brush such as a toothbrush) adds a little more interest. 
 
You can always create a more worn look by layering colours and removing layers to reveal what is underneath. A tip here is to add the extra colours where you will rub away and don't make the layers thick - there is no need to add layers into fine recesses unless that is where you want to reveal a colour. 
 
If you wish to give your painted surface extras "depth" and aged interest then using a soft brown wax (I like to use annie sloane Dark wax - it is easy to use and doesn't smell) as a final coat. You can choose to polish to a high sheen or just a soft polish for age. You can also mix waxes - I love to add liming wax (white wax) to brown wax if I want a softer look. You can always finish with a dusting of dust. 
 
Finally on painted items you can always finish with a flick of off white (you can do this on gilt too but you would need to use a brown such as raw or burnt umber). Take a brush and apply a small amount of paint then work most of the paint off so that you are left with a trace of paint on the brush. Brush this lightly over the item so that you catch the raised areas and the corners and edges of the items. How much you apply is up to you and you can have so much fun experimenting to see what looks best for your chosen design. 
 
If your painting goes wrong you can remove it by dipping the item into acetone for a few minutes and scrubbing off the paint with a toothbrush. Note it will also dismantle your model as it will weaken the glue!!!