This is a 3d file. No physical item will be posted to you. After purchase you will receive an email with a Zip file attached containing the OBJ file for 3d printing.

‘La Nature Se Dévoliant Devant La Science’ - nature revealing herself before Science; A sculpture by Louis-Ernest Barrias (1874 – 1905), cast by Susses Freres, depicts a young woman, symbolizing Nature, unveiling her face and bare chest to the scrutiny of science. The bronze figure, with gilded accents and a green Scarab Beetle, was first displayed in marble at the Paris Salon in 1893, under the longer title of 'La Nature mystérieuse et voilée se découvre devant la Science’, in its fully unclothed form. It was acquired by the medical faculty at l'Ecole de Médecine in Bordeaux. Barrias revisited the theme a few years later, showcasing a related sculpture at the 1899 Salon, simply titled ‘La Nature se dévoilant'.

This file needs to be scaled to your prefered height. See notes for more information.

If you are thinking of purchasing your own 3d printer then please google reviews on SLA printers - there are many great printers available and some at very reasonable prices with great print quality. To get you started take a look at the Elegoo range of resin printers. They are very user friendly, a great price (starting at around $145 for the Mars) and offer very good prints.

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I am sharing this digital file with you free of charge and the originator (STW) expresses that it must not be used for commercial purposes.

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3D OBJ File La Nature Se Dévoliant Devant La Science STATUE

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Each 3D printable from Alison Davies Miniatures is available for purchase in the form of a downloadable STL or OBJ file, the most common format for 3D printing at home. These files can be opened and edited with various free and paid software, allowing you to adjust your printing settings to your liking. No matter what material you choose to print in, you will receive a high-quality file. For slicing software I recommend using PrusaSlicer, which is available for free, For image manipulation there are free editors such as Tinkercad, 3D Builder or Blender available.

The files are made available after purchase. Usually the files will be received within 15-30 minutes after checkout. These or a link to the files are sent to the email address you have provided.

Kindly note that more complex models may require intermediate to advanced knowledge of splicing software and the placement of supports for both Resin and FDM printing.
Prepare it for printing. This process, known as slicing, involves converting your digital model into instructions that your 3D printer can understand and follow. Let's explore what slicing entails, why it is important, and the software options available for this task.

Understanding the Slicing Process
In the realm of 3D printing, slicing does not involve an actual knife. Instead, slicing software divides your 3D model into numerous horizontal layers, often numbering in the hundreds or thousands. Each layer represents a single pass that the 3D printer will make to build your final printed object.

Slicing software also generates a G-code file based on your model. This file contains a series of instructions that direct your 3D printer's movements. It provides information on where to move, how fast to move, the optimal operating temperature, and when to extrude material.

The Significance of Effective Slicing in 3D Printing
Slicing plays a critical role in the 3D printing workflow. The quality of the slicing directly impacts the success of your print. If the layers are too thin, the printing process may become excessively time-consuming, and the final print may lack strength.

Slicing is a critical step in the 3D printing process, as it can greatly impact the outcome of your print. The thickness of the slices must be carefully considered to avoid issues such as lengthy printing time or loss of detail. It is also important to take into account factors like the printing material, printer speed, and level of detail needed for the model. These factors determine the appropriate slicing settings for your model.

Selecting the right slicing software is crucial for a successful 3D printing experience. Some recommended options are Ultimaker Cura, PrusaSlicer, and Simplify3D.

PrusaSlicer, a popular and constantly updated free software, is compatible with various 3D printers, not just Prusa models. To slice a model on PrusaSlicer, you can easily import the model, adjust the printer settings, and then slice and preview the G-code before exporting it for printing. The program's user-friendly interface is divided into three sections: 3D view, right sidebar, and top menu. Prusa profiles are available for Prusa printer users, making the setup process even simpler. Once the model is sliced, you can preview the G-code to get an idea of the final print and then export it for printing. By carefully following these steps, you can ensure an effective slicing process for your 3D prints.

The slicing process can be seen as a translator that transforms your 3D model into a format that is intelligible to your 3D printer. By gaining a thorough understanding of slicing, you are arming yourself with a valuable weapon in your 3D printing toolkit, guaranteeing that your final prints closely resemble your original designs.
Once the model has been designed and the slicing software has prepared it, the next step is to bring it to life in the physical world.

The Process of 3D Printing

3D printing involves creating a three-dimensional object from a digital file through an additive process. This process consists of laying down layers of material until the complete object is formed. Each layer represents a thinly sliced horizontal cross-section of the final object.

After loading the G-code file into the 3D printer, the printer begins printing material layer by layer, following the instructions in the G-code file, allowing the object to be built up vertically.
Once your 3D model is completed and your printer has finished its job, the journey is not yet complete. This is where post-processing comes in - the final step to perfect your print and make it truly stand out. Essentially, post-processing involves improving the quality of your prints, eliminating any unwanted imperfections, and adding aesthetic elements. It is similar to editing a photo in the world of 3D printing - refining, correcting, and enhancing your creation. Proper post-processing can greatly improve the quality of your 3D prints, making the difference between a basic prototype and a polished final product. It is a crucial part of the 3D printing process, ensuring the functionality and durability of the printed object, and often bringing intricate details to life.

Each 3D printed item is unique and may require different methods for post-processing.

Here, are some common tools and techniques you can use:

1. Cleaning: After your print is removed from the build plate, it is time for some tidying up. This step involves removing any support structures used during printing. For FDM prints, these can usually be taken off by hand or with pliers. If you are working with SLA prints, the supports must be removed carefully to avoid damaging the print. Additionally, if you are using an SLA printer, the print will need to be soaked in isopropyl alcohol or a similar solvent to remove excess resin. This process, known as post-curing, requires exposing the print to UV light - either from the sun or a UV curing station - to fully harden the resin.

2. Smoothing: Smoothing is the manual process of refining the surface of your printed object in order to achieve a polished finish. This can be accomplished by using a variety of sandpaper grits, starting with a coarse grit and gradually working up to a finer grit. For hard-to-reach areas or more stubborn materials, a rotary tool can also be utilized. It is important to always work in a well-ventilated area and consider wearing a mask to avoid inhaling any plastic particles.

3. Bonding and Assembly: If your print was printed in multiple parts, this stage involves assembling the pieces together. Cyanoacrylate glue, also known as superglue, is commonly used for this purpose, although certain plastics may require a specific type of adhesive. For materials like ABS, a technique called "welding" can be employed. This involves using a solvent such as acetone to partially melt the surfaces of the parts, which are then joined together to create a strong bond.

4. Priming and Painting: Before painting, it is recommended to apply a primer to even out any remaining layer lines and create a surface that paint can easily adhere to. Primers are typically applied using a spray can in a well-ventilated area. Painting is the stage where the print truly comes to life with color. Acrylic paints are excellent due to their fast drying time, user-friendly application, and water solubility. For more intricate work, a fine paintbrush can be used, while larger areas may require a broader brush or even airbrushing for a smooth finish.

5. Final Touches: The last step in post-processing is the finishing stage. This can be as simple as applying a clear coat to protect and enhance the paint, or as intricate as using techniques like weathering to give the print a worn or aged look. Other finishes such as gloss or matte can also be applied to achieve the desired aesthetic. It is important to remember that post-processing is an art form in itself. Each technique requires practice, and not all prints will require every step. With experience, you will learn which processes work best for your prints and develop your own unique post-processing style.
The file is supplied in 12th scale but you will be able to rescale the model to smaller scales and up to 1/6 scale. For advice on rescaling may I suggest googling this subject area. It is relatively straightforward and there are hundreds of videos and tutorials on it but it has to be noted that when an item is scaled to very small proportions then some detail may be lost and fine sections such as handles and fingers (depending on design) may not print. Also remember that if you are printing using resin SLA then any supports that are attached to very fine and thin sections will be tricky to remove.